AIDS Walk Africa 2008: Day 4
July 3, 2008
AIDS Walk Africa 2008: Virtual Walk
Day 1 | Day 2 | Day 3 | Day 4 | Day 5
By Heather Mason Kiefer
Photos by Jon Hrusa
We arrived at the drop-off point this morning and were surprised again. In the middle of the dirt soccer field next to the road stood a small tent and chairs. We sat down and were greeted by Matron Shongwe. She introduced Mathokoza, a member of the royal family who serenaded us with the beautiful hymn, “Thou Art Worthy.” Pam Barnes stood up to speak and recited an African proverb: “If you want to go fast, you go alone. If you want to go far, you go together.” With that, we embarked upon Day 4.
A child looks at walkers in a village on the fourth day of AIDS Walk Africa 2008.
We walked along the Mdzimba Mountains, on the opposite side from where we walked yesterday. These mountains are sacred – the royal family is buried there. We also passed one of the royal residences, a sprawling group of buildings where one of the king’s wives lives.
The walkers pose for a group photograph in front of the Mdzimba Mountains.
After several rests and lots of water consumption, we turned onto a narrow footpath. Soon we reached the Vilakati Homestead – the home of a Swazi extended family. Before entering the compound, John, our Swazi guide, briefed us on the ways of a traditional homestead. Homesteads are usually occupied by a husband and his wives, each wife with her own living quarters. John instructed the men to remove their hats and taught us how to announce ourselves by calling out, “Eh, Vilakati!”
Laurie Antonellis meets a mother and baby.
Visiting the homestead was a magical experience. The family – mothers, fathers, children, and babies – greeted us as we entered. A shy 15-year-old boy named Mpila showed us around, telling us about the traditional hut in the center of the homestead (the hut is round, so evil spirits can’t hide in the corners), and letting us pet two-day-old baby goats. Walker Jennifer Rikkers pulled out a Polaroid camera and took pictures of the children, who watched incredulously as their images appeared and held onto the photos as if they were gold.
Jennifer Rikkers gives a Polaroid picture to a child in the Vilakati Homestead.
None of us wanted to leave, but it was past noon and time to eat. We said goodbye to our friends and continued down the path in single file. We eventually reached a clearing and could hear the sound of rushing water below. We had to cross a small river to reach our destination, so we picked our way down the ravine and clambered across the water and back up again. We reached a shady hillside where we collapsed and enjoyed a hearty lunch.
Ariana Brown meets a mother and her baby in the Vilakati Homestead.
After we finished eating, we walked a few short kilometers to our last stop: the Lamvelase Clinic. We’ve grown to expect big welcomes here in Swaziland, but this one was exceptional. Schoolgirls in traditional attire lined the entrance, dancing and chanting as we passed. Several community members and Ministry of Health employees, as well as children from a nearby primary school, waited for us in the yard. We sat down under a tent and the girls performed a Swazi dance similar to the one we saw yesterday.
Community elder S. Z. Mthetwa laughs during a ceremony at the Lamvelase Clinic.
Then the boys came out and treated us to most the jaw-dropping dance we’ve seen. They contorted their bodies with amazing grace and precision, kicking their legs as high as their shoulders. It was breathtaking.
Boys perform a dance for the walkers at the Lamvelase Clinic.
The Lamvelase Clinic is facing the same challenges as the other clinics, serving a huge population with a tiny staff. Since it was late afternoon and the patients were gone, we were able to wander through the clinic, which was completely spotless and bright, at length. Before we left, Pam, walker/board member Bill Belfiore, and Bill’s son Ionel planted another avocado tree behind the clinic.
The walking is over now; tomorrow is our community build project. What better way to spend the 4th of July than building a playground in Swaziland?